The Abenaki namesake of the Winooski Valley, the wild onions or leeks, are coming up on schedule now on the few rich, rocky hardwood slopes that remain here. If it snows now, they still push up, insistently green and vigorous. It seems our excitement is part of that going back thousands of years to early inhabitants of this valley, who gathered their first fresh greens of the year here. In honor of this history, we pick a few leaves but never dig the bulbs, knowing what overuse can do.